Behind-the-Scenes of the Skincare Industry from a Cosmetic Chemist
Are you curious about the skincare industry? If so, keep reading as I dive into some behind-the-scenes of the skincare industry from a cosmetic chemist.
One year ago, at the beginning of 2022, I took a leap and accepted a position as an R&D chemist in the skincare industry – also known as a cosmetic chemist. I had no idea what I was getting myself into, but I’m so glad I took on the challenge. I’ve always loved the realm of skincare. I started having trouble with acne in my 20’s. Being the scientist I am, I began to “research” everything I could find about skincare. Of course, my research at this time consisted of Google searching ingredients and reading articles from Allure. Little did I know, there was way more behind-the-scenes that the average consumer did not know. So, here I’d like to share some behind-the-scenes of the skincare industry that will help you become an educated consumer.
Table of Contents
1. The Ingredient List
I knew that ingredients were listed from highest to lowest percentage, but I didn’t know that this rule only applies if the ingredient is 1% or above. Surprisingly, not many ingredients are greater than 1%! I was shocked to find out that most products are more than 90% water. Of course, plenty are oil-based, solid, or “waterless” these days, but the vast majority are water-based.
Now, there’s nothing wrong with them being mostly water. A lot of actives (ingredients that hold claims to do XYZ) are only needed in small quantities. For example, a 0.5% retinol is extremely effective. However, some companies will put useless concentrations of ingredients just to show it on the ingredient list. Luckily, they cannot lie and say a product is 25% Vitamin C unless it truly is (I love this Vitamin C serum most!), so go for these transparent brands!
2. Impurities
An ingredient is not the same across all products. The manufacturing process matters! Sadly, companies don’t have to be transparent about this. Impurities do not have to be listed on the ingredient list. For example, let’s say that one ingredient manufacturer produces ingredient A in a process that yields formaldehyde in trace amounts. If it is below a certain amount (usually in the “parts per million” range), then it is allowed and not added to the ingredient list. Another company may produce the same ingredient in a “clean” process without the impurities! A good chemist will ask for the vendor’s manufacturing process and choose the one without impurities. Not all brands are thorough about this.
3. Ingredient Vendors
There is an abundance of ingredient suppliers (also called vendors) not just in the US but from all over the world. Chemists discover ingredients and their suppliers via various databases, such as UL Prospector, or by going to supplier conventions that are held throughout the year. It is honestly overwhelming how many options there are, and how hard they try to sell you on their product. If you think skincare marketing makes it hard to choose a product, ingredient marketing makes it 100x harder to choose an ingredient. I often wonder how many products were formulated solely based on what suppliers convinced the chemist well enough.
4. Marketing
While we are on the subject of marketing – ho-ly-cow. I did not realize how much I was swayed by products simply based on their marketing and not their formulations! Some companies are amazing at getting their products into the hands of influencers and making everyone feel like they must have it. Believe me when I say the marketing budget at these companies is far larger than their R&D budget! Yes, some have the means to do both, but don’t let yourself get easily swayed. Look at the ingredients before you purchase!
5. Formulations
I used to think that creating a product would be as easy as throwing together all of the ingredients listed, mixing, and voila! A finished product. Not quite. Can you believe there’s actually some chemistry to it? *insert sarcasm here* The order in which ingredients are added matters. The way some ingredients interact matters. The pH matters. The temperature matters. Even the mixing speed matters!
This might seem obvious to some, but I was surprised that just one ingredient difference can completely change the end result. I explain this because it made me realize that the different combinations out there are endless. It also made me realize that what an ingredient is paired with can be the difference between an ingredient being “bad” vs. “good”. For example, surfactants. Surfactants are what make a cleansing product foam and remove dirt and oils. A harsh surfactant, such as sulfates, can be combined with a co-surfactant to make it far less harsh and still an amazing cleanser.
6. Differences in Industry Markets
I learned very quickly that the main difference between “consumer skincare” ie. Sephora, indie brands, etc., and “medical grade” skincare is that medical grade doesn’t care about the current trends in the consumer market nor do they follow “free of” marketing. They don’t care to call out that they don’t use parabens or sulfates because a lot of them still do!
Parabens and sulfates are not bad, don’t be scared of them. They have been tested and retested for safety and determined safe if used below 0.8% (use the Cosmetic Ingredient Review to look up ingredient testing). Most products only need 0.1-0.2% to act as an effective preservative. They are the best preservatives on the market, a very important distinction as moving away from parabens has caused a lot of product contamination reports over the last few years. The last thing you want is for your skincare to grow microbes that work against the health of your skin and eyes!
7. Takeaway: Behind-the-Scenes of the Skincare Industry
Being behind-the-scenes of the skincare industry has opened my eyes to so many secrets and truths that consumers may not be aware of. From the details of ingredient lists and the manufacturing process to the marketing tactics used to sell products, there is so much more to skincare than meets the eye. It has taught me to be a more discerning consumer and to prioritize ingredient transparency and efficacy over clever marketing. As the industry continues to evolve, it is important for us to educate ourselves and make informed decisions about the products we use on our skin. Skincare is not just about looking good; it’s about taking care of our skin’s health in the long run. I hope you found my behind-the-scenes of the skincare industry insights helpful in making informed consumer choices next time you make a skincare purchase!
Thanks for reading!
XOXO Jamie Jo
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